PTS Flowbench Forum

Hi,

Any tips on how to make sure your cuts are straight and square etc. E.g. when your cutting into the MDF from two different sides how to make a nice 90 at the corner without going a little past with the saw etc. Pics of your set up would be brilliant!

I am tempted to get a quote for the board place to cut them to size for me. Does anyone have experience of much extra this adds to the cost?

I do apologise for such basic questions. I really am a much better engine builder than carpenter.

Cheers.

Hello Neddy ... Welcome to the world PTS.
This should help!

I used a 1"x1"x8' aluminum angle for my first build as a straight edge. I clamped it to the board and measure 2-3 times before cutting.

I laid a large particle board underneath/cutting table as a sacrificial board and cut into that so I would have a clean bottom edge. Set the saw blade depth to go into this board maybe 1/4".

Not sure what country you live in but you can buy a nice clamp-on cutting edge from Harbor Freight for around $15.00.

I have a local wood shop that cuts complete flowbench panels for me for $300, it's very dust free that way! MDF is dusty make sure you use a mask!!!!!!!!! I did have a shop do a CNC router cutout but they kept jacking the price up thinking they could make a living off of flowbench builds! I had one cutout and it cost me $700 and is like a jigsaw puzzle trying to put together.

I'm trying to find someone more local again with a CNC router as I would like to start building complete flowbenches to sell in the USA. My garage is not sized to do this myself.

Bruce
Have you already cheched out this place it looks to be local to you or not far from you
http://steveswoodworking.com/

Malvin wrote:Bruce
Have you already cheched out this place it looks to be local to you or not far from you
http://steveswoodworking.com/

One of the places on my list already to checkout, thanks for reminding me to go see them!

I'd really like to find someone else like myself doing this on their own. I have toyed with the idea of buying a single sheet router and giving it a go, it would only take a few flowbench builds to pay it back. Problem is the space required, you've been to my place and can understand what I am dealing with

Rick hauled some toys out of my shop the other week so I have some floor space again just need to get organized which I am working on.

Sorry didn't mean to take this thread off on a tangent!

Neddy wrote:Hi,

Any tips on how to make sure your cuts are straight and square etc. E.g. when your cutting into the MDF from two different sides how to make a nice 90 at the corner without going a little past with the saw etc.

Its a long time since I did this myself, but as already said, the biggest secret is to rigidly clamp a robust strait edge saw guide onto the piece you are cutting. Take your time to position the saw guide exactly at each end, and you can accurately cut dead straight to within a few thousandths.

Once the strait edge is clamped down, you can measure directly between the side of saw teeth, and the edge of the sheet with a steel ruler.
That will probably be more accurate as a final check than using just a tape and some pecil marks as shown in the video.

Buy a nice sharp brand new "panel" saw blade with the largest number of fine teeth.
Most saws can be adjusted to cut at a bevel angle, so make very sure the blade angle is set at exactly at ninety degrees.
Bruce's idea of using a sacrificial backing piece is excellent for the cleanest possible lower edge.
Practice first on some scrap to perfect your technique, and don't be in too much of a hurry to start cutting.

You can cut almost right up to an internal corner on the top of the sheet, then with the piece to be removed well supported, finish the cut with a hand saw right into the corner. The existing cut will guide the saw and there is not far to go, so its not as hairy as it sounds.

Just thought of something else to add, keep in mind the width of the saw blade cut and which side of the blade you are cutting on for the straight edge.

Quite possible to be "short" the width of the blade if you use the wrong side measurement

I marked my saw with the dimension from the edge to the blade on the saw so I would always know!

Make a few test cuts and measure that way you know the exact measurement.

That is why its a good idea to always make one final measurement to the side of the saw teeth with a steel ruler.

If It Was me Going to set up a straight edge I would just use one of my Plunge cut Routers
its way more accurete the any skil saw or panel saw

Pretty much exactly what I wanted to know. Appreciate the replies. Thanks.

I have two 'board cut to size' places in the industrial area I work in, so I'll ask them how much, but will probably just do it myself.