all motors run while testing - switch each motor on as needed

[49-1183904562]

[color=#000000]Max,

In your case all could not be lost as if your white wire in the dryer circuit is connected to Neutral you will only need to find a local source for a suitable ground. This could be another local circuit, a copper water pipe, or through the wall or floor to another earth ground even if you have to drive a stake outside. This ground only needs to be a #12 wire as it is only for safety.

I am working on the much owed pictures and schematics today but to help this thread along I think we need to know what your planned depression control will be. You may ask why but this seriously affects wiring. The three choices as I see it for controlling depression are 1.) Mechanical 2.) Electronic 3.) Electro Mechanical.

Mechanical is like most of the SF benches and the MSD bench where the switched on motors run WFO and you control air flow with a valve (Infamous Pudding Bowl).

Electronic

[thomasvaught-1]

Thanks for the additional info, Rick.

I agree Bruce's plans are based on a lot of knowledge transfer over the last few years.

Tom V.

[106-1194218389]

Thanks you guys,
Your suggestions have really helped. Rick, yes my white wire is insulated and hooks to the neutral bar in the main box. I am going to follow your suggestion and just make a ground wire that I can anchor to a stake driven into the ground. That is a simple solution. I do have Bruce's plans, it is just I am 59 now and you have to tell me Three times to get my attention now. :;):

John

[49-1183904562]

Sorry if i repeat myself, my wife said i didn't listen well.

I thisk the best plan is to use two motors wired in series to 240vac and a speed controller. Then the rest to individual switches. I will post some sample Schemantics later I have some testing and picture taking to do. I will also post results of testing the Payne Engineering Controller.

Rick

[bruce]

I'm setting my PTS bench up to use a sub-panel and individual 15A breakers for each motor as Larry C talked about here somewhere on the forum. Makes for a nice neat setup, run the 220V line in and split it out of the box to the motors. Might be more wire to run but there is plenty of room for that in my design.

It's all going to come down to how much power you plan to run to supply the motors. Each setup is going to be dependent to each user's bench requirements. Use all the great info here to plan your setup accordingly.

Can't wait to hear the feedback on the Payne Control . . .



Edited By bruce on 1203877965

[49-1183904562]

[color=#000000]Well here goes.

I set up a test with the Payne 18TB-2-25, this is the 240VAC 25amp max load with remote control potentiometer. It is a simple wire setup one side of hot to the controller one side of hot to the motor. The motors are wired in series and the other motor wire goes to the controller load. Two Wires

So I wired to a 20 amp 240VAC circuit and all I can say is it worked as expected

[Tony]

Great find Rick, that Payne 18TB looks to be ideal for multi vacuum motor control (up to 25 amps for largest size).

Just like to add a comment.

Looking at the specification sheet of the 18TB, it uses a pair of SCRs for power control which is exactly what is required. Many other similar looking AC power controllers use Triacs. Even some of the other models of Payne controller use Triacs as the power controlling element.



Triacs work fine for resistive loads such as light bulb dimmers, and heater controllers. They will usually be very erratic in operation, or not work at all with inductive loads such as vacuum motors.

As you have already discovered, even a good SCR controller may sometimes fail to work (drop out) at low motor speeds, and some extra resistive loading may be required.

If planning to use something like this for a flow bench control, look up the manufacturers specifications. If you find the word SCR, or it says "suitable for motor speed control" that is what you want to see.

If you find the word Triac, or it says "suitable for resistive loads only" it is not going to work very well, if at all with vacuum motors. Cheap light dimmers are usually of this unsuitable type.

Controlling all the motors simultaneously has a definite advantage with noise, and motor life, when running at anything less than absolutely flat out, which will be most of the time.

[larrycavan]

You got to love Tractorsport....this place has so much good information and is so laid back....it's just not your everyday Internet forum....Thans for that inside bit of knowledge Tony & Rick...good stuff!