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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - tell me what I am missing with plan
Page 1 of 1

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:01 pm
by blaktopr
Hello everyone. Based on ideas in here I drew up a quick plan for a orifice bench so I can put the motors outside. PVC pipe will come into the control box. One pipe for intake, one for exhaust. A valve will turn on the one in use. I am not sure how big a pipe is needed just to transition from one box to another.

The flow control is in the "right" box approximately 12" wide, 24 to 36" high and same deep. You can see the box divider and control. The shaded circles on the left of that box feeds into the next chamber before the orifice.

The flow box on top was just drawn disconnected. You get the idea.

Orifices are separate pieces some set for intake direction, others exhaust. I figure if I router out the stationary center wood for the plates to fit in and secured and sealed. The wheel that turns to choose the range is wood, spring loaded to sandwich the plates. No matter which direction of flow, it is sealed and has the correct direction orifice.

Not drawn in is some internal baffleing if needed and the structure support. Thanks




Edited By larrycavan on 1205978870

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:09 pm
by larrycavan

PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 11:21 pm
by blaktopr
I am trying not to over do this. Would like to have the motors outside for noise. I am not sure the size pipe necessary with the shut off resrictions to flow the numbers. I am shooting for at least 28" and higher and to be honest may never see anything flow close to 500. Just consistent and stable to learn more of the science while achieving more airflow and a better shape.
The valves on the intake and exhaust from outside will be opened and closed to the coresponding pipe going to the chamber of the depression control. There may be changes based on budget of availability of materials. A couple of relays N/O and N/C tied to a single pole switch can activate some electical activated valves instead of manual.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 9:55 am
by larrycavan

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:11 am
by bruce

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 1:12 pm
by blaktopr
OK Larry, how about this drawing. The other one had too many pipes. I can get a tee and by doing that can put the motor box above my roof but inside the addition if I want for the moisture problem. I was going to build it like you would a house on the outside. Basically steel frame, to glued and sealed wood. then tyvec and siding. I can easily put the box and venting in another part of the garage. Bruce, I cant imagine that kind of pressure difference in the shop. There are too many places for air to go. Not sealed good at all.
Thank you ..

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 5:42 pm
by Tony
That should work o/k. The pipework will need to be fairly large to flow 500 CFM, perhaps four inch minimum diameter.
If the pipe runs are long, or there are many acute elbows, even larger pipe may be better.

I am using six inch pipe discharging air down a storm water drain for suction testing, and it is very quiet. For blow testing my bench inhales room air, but the discharge air out of what I am testing is fairly noisy with air roar.

By far, most of the noise will come from the air discharge, wherever that is. The air intake should produce very little noise, especially if there is a long pipe feeding air into the blowers.

Sourcing or discharging air outside the test room is o/k, but make absolutely sure that there is an open door or window, or a large fixed vent to outside. A very low differential air pressure can easily burst a building.

Noise will also be reduced if the blower box is made from really thick heavy material, as it most usually is.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:16 pm
by larrycavan
That drawing looks better.