My bench

[Mousehouse1]

Here is my bench after I finished painting it. The paint scheme is dedicated to my wife and the country she comes from. Thought it was the least I could do considering some of the projects she lets me do without giving me a hard time.

[larrycavan]

I decided to paint mine inside after seeing the post with the leaking cabinet with the bubbles. While I had it apart I took a pic of how I setup the baffel and where I mounted my test pressure probe.

Larry C

[Mousehouse1]

Here is the finished paint job with decals & deck plates installed. I haven't all of the internals but it is just about there.



Larry look at the foam on the top chamber and see if you think it will work? I think it is a little thicker then what you are using but I will give it a try and see what happens. If all else fails I will silicone the top and will still have access through the front deck plate.

[larrycavan]

If it's not quite as air tight as you think it should be, get some 2" black electrical tape and put a wrap all the way around the top section where the top plate meets it. It will stick and it will put a final and removable seal on it. Obviously you would do that after you screw the top on tight....oh...once it's all together, fire it up on intake and then go over your screws one more time...they'll go a bit tighter...

PS..nice decal...did you make that?

You did paint the angled orifice board...right? It looks like it's not painted in the pic.

Larry

[Thomas Vaught]

Nice Job!!!

Tom V.

[Mousehouse1]

I painted the angled orifice board but didn't paint the board that the orifice plates sit on yet. That is what you are seeing it the above picture. I also posted some pictures on zeroing in on my design. You can see the board I am talking about.

It has taken several weeks to figure out what I wanted to do to this bench to help seal it and to change the orifice disk to a plate system. Several board members need all of the credit for this one. I didn't do it alone.

Larry I made the decals on a plotter I have at work.

[Mousehouse1]

Finally got the bench 99% done and back together. After all of the changes I have 7cfm leakage at a little over 30". Is that considered acceptable?

The orifice plates Bruce made for me were just about dead on with the cd reading he wrote on each one of them. One I had to change .05 and the other was .03. I used the calibration plate that John sent with the FP1 and entered all of the orifice plate information. Not one problem during calibration. I barely had to change the position of the intake valve. Nice change from all of the headache I went through in the beginning.

I am curious what my cylinder heads will flow since I have most of the leaks fixed. I know I have a leak in one of the cheap deck plates but that will be solved when the news ones come in.

Thanks to all that have helped me through my problems with my flow bench. Without you I wouldn't have finished it.

[larrycavan]

Hey Martin....good job! ...sounds like you're making excellent progress...

Larry

[Mousehouse1]

I was hoping that the orifice plates would solve some of the leakage problem. I just need to change a few things and it should be finished and I can start having a little fun.

What amount of leakage is considered ok in a home made bench?

[larrycavan]

You can work with what you have. Start your tests with a cabinet leak test at whatever test pressure you use and subtract that amount from the test results.

There's a double sided black rubber tape that's used to hold moldings onto car bodies. My brother is a body man. He's got stuff to stick anything to anything....You could use that to seal your top if the foam stuff doesn't cut the mustard....It's some seriously good stuff.

Larry

[Mouse]

Martin,

Make sure all your plastic tubing connecting your FP1 electronic flow rate processor to your bench, and the tubing inside the bench cannot move during tests. Movement of these tubes can create pressure pulses in the tubing that the FP1 will see.

Also, make sure your FP1 is not on a surface that vibrates or moves. And not too close to high voltage wiring or motors.

What size orifice are you using during a leak test?


John

[Thomas Vaught]

Agree on the tubing deal. SF benches have the tubing loosely stapled every 6 inches or so from the orifice box to the manometers.

Tom V.

[Mousehouse1]

I don't think anyone ever gave me an answer. What is acceptable for leakage on a flow bench at 28"?

One more thing before I forget. How do you guys seal your cylinder head to the cylinder head fixture? Do you use a head gasket in between and big c-clamps or what? If you use c-clamps how many do you use?

[larrycavan]

Martin

The leakage CFM you're getting would be acceptable...

I usually don't need any clamp for intake tests. Usually I put one clamp on a head for exhaust testing..

[Mousehouse1]

What is a good way to block off the 2" holes in the unused motors? I would like to block several of them off and do a few tests to see if they are causing some of my leakage. I thought about using rubber stoppers but I thought I would ask and see if there is a cheaper way.

The motors can't be removed without breaking the mouting board. They are liquid nailed on the board and there not coming off anytime soon.