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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - What are you using for valves, msd style bench - How critical is it?

What are you using for valves, msd style bench - How critical is it?

Orifice Style bench discussions

Postby MMack » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:53 am

New to the site, great stuff.

I am building a msd style bench, and thanks to Bruce for leading me to the site. Great stuff.

I was really struggling with the complexities and obvious shortcomings of the orifice disc and concerned about the soundness of using multiple holes for the orifices, so I have abandoned that prior to making the first cut on the piece of steel. Wasn't comfortable with not having access to the flow control valves and orifice area, now I have three port holes coming for the vents and orifice area access.

I am having trouble finding bowls for the flow control vavles. Any tips? Kmart, Walmart, Biglots, no got! I saw someone posted a sketch of something to do with rubber sheeting and kind of a soft seal. I like the concept, but am not sure about exactly how to do it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Is there a better idea than the bowl? I saw some with what looked like machined aluminum discs, I have a couple 4.5" X 1" al discs, what is the min and max dimension. I am currently working on import stuff, but I don't want to design in a limitation that I will regret down the road.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Mike

btw - 6 electrolux vac motors, one big shop vac, and one more that is promised by the neighborhood fast and furious kid who is looking for a favor down the line.
MMack
 
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Postby gofaster » Thu Mar 29, 2007 11:46 am

Mike,
Here is a link to a thread which will take you to pictures of my flow control valves.



I didn't like the idea of using tin bowls, I wanted something that would be sturdy enough for years of daily use. The acme threaded rod came from Enco, along with the stop collars, couplings, and bushings. The rest was home made. Unlike the configuration used by the "popular flowbench plan", that has both valves opening and closing on the same side of the valve plate, I opposed my valves to take advantage of the natural pressure differences across the valves to assist in sealing.
Jim
gofaster
 
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Location: Indiana

Postby MMack » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:09 pm

Thanks for the info. I had looked at your post, very nice work! I am trying to do this on a less than shoestring budget. I was trying to find a source for the bowls, or a cost equivalent alternative. I found a place through Yahoo on the third or fourth page that had 2/3 quart bowls for $1.25 each. Paid $7.50 shipping, so it still cost me $10, but I have them. I liked your idea of reversing the valves, and I plan to do that, why fight the pressure when it can help you. I have some Acme threaded rod left from another project, I may use that instead of the 3/8" rod I had intended to use. I also like your plan to keep the valves from spinning. Don't know how I will do this with the bowls, but I will keep thinking.

Mike
MMack
 
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Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 1:37 pm

Postby 1960flh » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:53 pm

If your bowls are stainless with a lip you could just notch, or drill a hole on the outer flanges that could run up and down a solid rod. If they do not have the flat lip around the top you could use a stailess fender washer fold one edge, then solder it to the bowl. I am saying solder assuming you may not have access to a tig welder. Stainless responds well to silver solder and a MAP tourch and is good to about 18000 psi load.

just a thought.

Rick
HP = Torque x RPM / 5252
1960flh
 
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