by gofaster » Wed Jul 11, 2007 9:15 am
You are on the right track. Raising the roof is the next logical step. along with making a nice radius on each side of the guide boss. Start at the "valve side" of the guide and work out with progressively larger diameter cutters (or stones, or cartridge rolls) to make the largest and smoothest radius practical. Make the guide boss smooth and round, not angular or sharp. When you work on the roof, keep in mind the thickness of the head under the valve spring seat. It's no fun to see sunshine through your roof!
You can also widen the port in this area if it won't cause you to hit water, oil, or pushrod openings. Keep in mind that you want all transitions in the port shape to be gradual, no sudden wide or deep areas. They cause turbulence which effectively restricts flow. Air does not want to turn, but it can be coaxed to follow your port if your shapes are right.
Here's a link (not the one I was looking for, but it'll do) that demonstrates what is happening at the short turn, and pretty much anywhere you have a direction change, bump, etc. in the port.
It looks like you have fairly heavy pressed in guides, similar to the engines I work on. You can push the guide out, and cut the guide boss down to a thickness equal to the guide diameter before you "teardrop" it (the boss). Before you put new guides in, you can turn a taper on the intake guide, and blunt the nose of the exhaust guide. There's too much heat in the exhaust port to use a fully tapered guide, it may burn away.
P.S. :
"Gosh, I know it's ugly, but I can't believe you folks haven't thrown something out yet."
Patience! you may not get an answer to a post for days or weeks, people on this forum are busy with their own problems, but they always come around the forum to check in when they have time. When it comes to dispensing information, this is one of the most generous groups on the net.
Edited By gofaster on 1184160230
Jim