Valve Grinding Equipment

[Scott H]

[106-1194218389]

[color=#000000]Tom,
Sometimes on a valve like you have there I also would do a three angle back cut - 45

[slracer]

If anyone is reading this and wishes they had a good setup, checkout this eBay listing:



I don't have any idea about this stuff, but this looks impressive (and all "new").

Doug

[WPH]

Just picked up a junk valve grinder for parts. I'm trying to modify it to have a centerless valve rotating assembly like this one:
Will be an interesting project. I'll post a picture after cleaning the "donator" grinder.

[WPH]

Here is my valve grinder project. Hot tanked and painted with high solid 2K polyurethane. All parts were in a reasonable condition,
but the motor has to be inspected (electrical safety). I don't know this manufacturer (VLC?) at all. Grinder is belt driven from motor
and the chuck has a screw gear operated via auxiliar flexible shaft.

I've already started designing the centerless valve rotating assembly (plasma cut the base plate from 10mm thick steel)
Next thing is to somehow? measure and mark the exact centerline for the rotating assembly

[49-1183904562]

WPH,

If this is for hobby only i might suggest you look into converting the chuck to ER precision collets instead. If done right you can hold run out to less than .001 Also the quality of the grinder stone shaft bearings are just as critical as they can cause chatter when refacing.

Rick

[WPH]

It's for a hobby only, I'll take a look at ER stuff.

[106-1194218389]

Looking good! Nice restore it is looking real clean. I love the color and should be durable and easy to clean. This forum sure shows what can be done with some thought and effort and at a fraction of the cost other wise. Good Job!

John

[WPH]

I think I've got some kind of clue on how to use ER collets. Any good advice on the actual labour needed for conversion?
I have access to couple of lathes and there is a CNC-shop close by if I can't make it on my own. ER's were priced very reasonably at our tool vendor.
Again this forum has proved itself being source of valuable knowledge for DIY people with limited funds. Thanks to all the members who share their time and valuable knowledge to keep things turning...

[49-1183904562]

[color=#000000]WPH

OK,

If I were to do this conversion I would start at the rotating bearings first.

Is it bushing or ball bearing?
If bushing does it have play?
Is it easier to re-bush or convert to bearings?
Then I would look at the thrust aspect of the shaft, if the bushings are good can I convert the thrust to flat Torrington type roller thrust.

If I have to convert to bearing then I would use a precision angular contact roller like use in a Quill on a milling machine but smaller, this will give you both rotating stability and thrust all in one set.

Then if you look at MSC/JL they have a nice selection of Kenametal ER collet holders, you will need to choose one that will work for the range of valve stems you would work on and have an OD that will work in your set up. I/E the collet holder OD would either work as the ID of the bearings or a size you could bore your current heard to and then fit and weld etc.

The biggest problem here is this, the id of the collet holder must end up being true to the OD of the bearing mounting surface otherwise you will never be able to get total run-out below this machining error. I know because I am currently looking at doing this to one of my Black and Decker machines (I

[larrycavan]

I bought a B&B valve grinding machine and seat gun together for $500 many years ago. I also have Neway hand cutters for cutting inside and outside angles. The gun is what I use on the actual seat cut because it's foolproof for a good seat.

Neway hand cutters are not the best thing going for getting a good, straight seat angle. Too easy to get the cutter following a crooked hole. Especially when you're sinking an over size valve for clearance in a Hemi Chamber head.

Hand cut your inside and outside angles, then zip the seat cut right between them and adjust from there. The stones make a perfect seat.

ALWAYS REMEMBER to face the stone every time you install it on the mandrel. You have to get the stone squared up with the mandrel to get a straight seat. Also it's good idea to touch it up before moving to the next seat.

Some guys will put a light spring under the stone to put upward pressure against it. I tried that once and it spun and left a nice ridge on the guide boss. If you use a spring, be wary of that.....





Those double sided Neway cutters get expensive.

[49-1183904562]

Larry;

Did you mean B&D?

I hear what you are saying about bounce springs, if you do not use a spring bushing the mandrel will grab the spring and you have a mess on your hands .

BTW which refacer do you have? I have two of the last model B&D sold and I am having some issues with repeatability (New collets I bought when I worked for B&D) so I am working through converting One to ER just not sure where to go.

I have had good luck with NewWay but only when I use Carbide pilots and my selection of those is minimal EXPENSIVE.

Rick

[larrycavan]

[49-1183904562]

Larry,

That is Funny as when i got all my stuff (Vo tech School Closing) I got two refacers, two seat grinders but only one stone truing fixture and two mandrels. So if your motor ever gives up I got a spare

I cannot believe how expensive mandrels are?

What do you drive your NewWay cutters with?

Rick

[WPH]

I turned a new insert to hold the ER25 collet. Halfed the play between collet holder and the mainshaft (about 0.001"). Run-out on insert cone inner dia and outer dia of the insert was less than 0.0004". Now I have to put the whole assembly back together and measure the total run-out of the valve holder. Tool vendor claimed 0.00059"- 0.00079" rotating accuracy for the collet I bought (just for testing, only 20$). If all measures up as I hope, I'll buy a set of higher accuracy (0.003mm, 3 x price) collets. I'm going to re-bush the assembly with a .25" wider bushings to get more area to support the mainshaft.