old valve 3d seat cutters and valve refacers

[MrHijet]

[larrycavan]

I've been using these cutters for many years. Here's some tips for you.

Only use solid pilots with those cutters.

ALWAYS support the head so the cutter sitting straight up. Less chance of rocking the cutter that way. Pilot should be at 90 degrees from the surface of your workbench.

It's very easy to rock the cutter with the T Handle and get the seat crooked.

Watch for a used powerhead with the variable speed control. Don't bother with the single speed units.

If you're going to continue on with Neway Cutters, then constantly be on the lookout for more cutter heads. Even if they are the same size as what you have now. Here's why.

There will be times when you will want to swap carbides out or have to adjust them. Going from seat to seat and adjusting the blades get's annoying and slows you down.

If you have spare cutters, you can pre-set them and just grab the other cutter when you would normally have to adjust the blades.

I would look for a used stone grinder setup as well. The stone will spin a straight seat cut in there in the blink of an eye where as with the Neway T Handle, you could spend lots of time trying to get a seat straight.

Use the Neway to do your inside and outside angles, then grab the stone and zip a straight seat cut in there.

Installing oversize valves with hand cutters is an exercise in pain when you only have the hand cutter. You can literally spend an entire day doing it. You're hands will hurt afterward if you have to sink the valves as much as I do in KZ heads.

The carbides don't hold up very well on the new 4Valve heads.

[emarsh]

I worked as an automotive machinist in the seventies and into the eighties and did a lot of heads. Back then Sioux was more or less the golden standard and Black and Decker was consumer grade junk. Looks like Sioux has been bought by Kwik-way - if I remember that's a good brand too.