by gofaster » Mon Dec 26, 2005 12:11 pm
Nick,
You asked a very good question. This is where the porter earns his keep, and the fluff and buff man goes away.
Generally speaking, you want a smooth radius from the floor, around the shortside, and into the seat. Some heads do not have enough material in this area to allow you to make the shape you want. A spare or junk head, or a plaster mold of the head is a great thing to have when you are working out your design. That way, you can grind, weld, add fillers, measure and test, measure and test, and measure some more, raise the floor, raise the roof, teardrop the guide, widen the turn area to try to slow down the ss, go back and fill it in or grind it back out.....
You get what I mean? If you have other things to do in the shop, go do them, and leave the head sit for a day or two. If you're like most of the people I know who do this work, your mind will keep working on the head while you are doing other things. When you come back to it you may see something that escaped you before.
If you take an approach where you make one change at a time, then measure and flowtest, you'll get results that will tell you whether you are moving in the right direction or not. Once you establish your own "sacred porting ritual", a systematic approach to working from the seat to the entry, and from the seat into the combustion chamber, things should fall into place for you.
One more thing, always try to make your flow test procedures into another kind of ritual that insures that the head is presented to the bench in exactly the same way. i.e., lightly greased guides and stems, tight sparkplug (or dummy plug), head in proper relationship to the bore, no airleaks at the gasket or ex. valv....etc
This may not be the answer you wanted, but it is how you'll find it.
Jim