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Tractorsport Flowbench Forum Archive • View topic - Nick's bench

Nick's bench

A place to post links to your flowbench projects to share with everyone on the board.  You can share a description and pics also here please limit the size of your picture files to low res pics, Thanks

Postby Nick » Sun Dec 04, 2005 4:49 pm

I decided to just paint it. (way to much work) This is just a prototype anyways, so paints fine for now. I used latex enamel, it's good for out door use. Oil base is tougher but I hate oil paints. I forgot to mention one of the best parts of this thing, I only have about $400 in it. It will flow about 300cfm now, but for another $45 it would go to 600cfm. It's total capacity is 1050cfm with all the stoppers out. My crappy ford heads only flow 200cfm so its no big deal for now.

I just need a test stand now. Something else to build.
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby Mouse » Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:21 pm

Looks good Nick.

Oil base will break down with oil and grease. Latex will not.

John
Mouse
 
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Postby larrycavan » Sun Dec 04, 2005 6:17 pm

Nice job Nick. A nice blue Ford logo would look good on that black surface...

Larry C
larrycavan
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Postby Mousehouse1 » Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:58 pm

Bench is looking good Nick.

I have the dimensions to make your own stand out of wood or plexi-glass if you want them. I need to make a couple more stands but just haven't had time.
Mousehouse1
 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:27 pm
Location: Oklahoma City

Postby Nick » Mon Dec 12, 2005 2:35 am

The paint did the trick. I have 0% leakage now. For those interested I tried opening more than one orifice tonight to see if the readings would change. They are the same no matter what combination I tried. I fact when I went from one open hole to 2 that should flow the same I never had to adjust the bleed valve, I just turned on the motors and it went right up to where It was.

Now, here's my disclaimer. If your orifices are to close to each other your readings may not work out OK. I kept the orifices as far apart as I could for this reason.

Here are the flow ranges

1=50 2=100 3=150 4=200 5=250 6=300

Here are the combos I tried

1&3 200
2&3 250
1&4 250
2&4 300
1&2&3 300

Also with my first head test tonight, I found out you need a spark plug in the hole. :D Details detail details.
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby gofaster » Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:39 pm

Looks sharp, Nick! And it sounds like you got things under control! Congratulations!
Jim
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Location: Indiana

Postby Nick » Sat Dec 31, 2005 1:34 am

I just could not deal with not knowing how my bench compared to the Blue stuff anymore. So I ripped the head off the truck, and flowed it. I had this head flowed by a Superflow 600. He did not use a bore adapter, nor did he use aliment pins. I am not sure if this is the exact port we flowed either. (5 years ago) With that said I am very happy with the results, not more that 3cfm either way.

Now that I have a good routine down, this thing will repeat within 1 cfm every time. (Ive only worked with 2 heads so far.)


SF Nick's
0 0
28.5 29
56 57
88.16 89
119 122
148 150
171 169
180 180
185 182
189 186
192 189
192 190
192 190

Also not everything posted on the thread is 100% accurate, since I have built this thing, I have learned a lot more. So if you see something that is not right, just ignore it. We all have a learning curve! I just don't want to confuse anyone.


Nick
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby Mousehouse1 » Sat Dec 31, 2005 11:12 am

Nice looking bench Nick. Glad you got everything worked out. I ended up painting mine after seeing one of your earlier posts and it solved a lot of my leakage problem. I need to finish painting the interior panels but I am down under 5cfm leakage. I think some of that is coming from a cheap deck plate which I will replace shortly.

Do you have any internal pictures of your bench you can send me or post?
Mousehouse1
 
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:27 pm
Location: Oklahoma City

Postby Thomas Vaught » Sat Dec 31, 2005 2:56 pm

Nick,

Congrats. I have helped several people build benches exactly as you have described even though the shape was different. They were happy with their benches too.

Having this forum makes it easy to pass on the info, especially with pictures, (I may get there on that deal someday). LOL!

I have learned so much more since joining the forums. Better ways to do some things mostly and also some nice spread sheets.

May have to try mouse's FP-1 some day too with an orifice bench and a computer.

Tom V.

ps My orifices are about 6 inches away from each other.
Thomas Vaught
 
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Location: Michigan

Postby Nick » Sat Dec 31, 2005 5:15 pm

Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby Mousehouse1 » Sat Dec 31, 2005 9:04 pm

Tell me where they are on this site and I will look for them.

If Bruce doesn't want you to post a lot of pictures you can email them to me.
Mousehouse1
 
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 4:27 pm
Location: Oklahoma City

Postby Nick » Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:27 am

The pics are here under Nick's bench. I'll try to explain how I laid it out better.

If you look at this pic, you will see the orifices are in the center of the top chamber. The deck plates are where they are in the finished product. I used 2x6 cut in half for braces every 6" The small deck plate is to change flow directions and the large clear one is to change out stoppers.
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby Nick » Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:30 am

This is a view looking down in the small deck plate on the top of the bench. This is in exhaust mode. You can see the exhaust side of the tangential discharge motor.
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby Nick » Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:33 am

This is a look in the large clear deck plate that is used to change orifices. I took a while to get the right stoppers so I had to squeeze the largest one with a bolt, and fill the top one to make due.
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

Postby Nick » Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:39 am

This is the valve opening tool I made. One thing I like about it is, If the pressure starts to over power the spring at low lifts, the dial indicator will follow the valve. It's nice to verify that the valve is where it should be. The guy who flowed my heads before just used a screw, and one of the tests he did for me was way off at low lifts because he did not catch it.



I hope this clears things up, if not PM me and I'll try to explain farther.
Nick
 
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Yakima WA

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